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Suggest a Feature →Baltimore, Maryland
The Charm City. Crabs, row houses, and the best hospital in the world.
Coast Guard Yard Baltimore at Curtis Bay is the only shipyard in the federal government — the Coast Guard's primary vessel construction, repair, and overhaul facility on the East Coast. It sits at the south end of Baltimore's harbor complex, a working industrial waterfront surrounded by the oldest continuously operating federal facility in the US.
Baltimore is the largest city in Maryland and one of the most characterful cities on the East Coast — a working-class port city with deep African American cultural heritage, the best crab houses in the world, one of the densest collections of surviving 19th-century row houses in America, and an extraordinary hospital complex (Johns Hopkins) that draws patients from around the world.
The cost of living is moderate relative to other East Coast metros. Baltimore has some of the most affordable housing of any major American city, with neighborhoods ranging from the gentrified Inner Harbor and Federal Hill to the working-class communities that have defined the city for 200 years.
Must Eat
The spots worth eating at before you PCS out.
LP Steamers
"The best steamed crabs in Baltimore. No argument."
A South Baltimore crab house where Maryland blue crabs arrive steamed and seasoned with Old Bay, dumped on butcher paper, and eaten with wooden mallets and crab knives. This is the Baltimore experience in its purest form. Cash preferred. Bring more time than you think you need.
A dozen mediums with a pitcher of Natty Boh. You'll understand Baltimore.
Faidley's Seafood
"The Lexington Market crab cake. One of the great American sandwiches."
In the historic Lexington Market (one of the oldest public markets in the US), Faidley's has been serving lump crab cakes since 1886. The crab cake — jumbo lump, minimal filler, broiled — is as good as crab cakes get in any form. Counter service, eat at the market bar.
Broiled, not fried. On a plate with crackers. No bun.
Miss Shirley's Cafe
"Baltimore's beloved brunch institution. Southern-influenced comfort food."
Multiple locations serving southern-influenced breakfast and brunch — chicken and waffles, crab eggs benedict, biscuits with seasonal fruit compotes. The lines are real on weekends. The quality justifies them. The crab benedict is the signature.
Outdoor
Get outside. The land around military installations is usually the best reason to be there.
Patapsco Valley State Park
"A river valley park winding through Baltimore County. Unexpectedly wild."
A long, narrow state park following the Patapsco River through the Baltimore metro area — 32 miles of a river valley with waterfall trails, Civil War history, and fishing access. The Cascade Falls area and the Orange Grove area are the best entry points.
Chesapeake Bay Sailing
"The greatest sailing bay in the Eastern US. Annapolis is the center."
The Chesapeake Bay — the largest estuary in the US — has the best sailing on the East Coast. Annapolis, 30 miles south, is the sailing capital. Bay Bridge Boat Rentals and the Annapolis Sailing School provide access for non-owners. The Bay in summer is extraordinary.
Gunpowder Falls State Park
"Northern Baltimore County's outdoor escape. Trout fishing and trail running."
A large state park north of Baltimore centered on the Gunpowder River — excellent catch-and-release trout fishing in the cold-water sections, miles of trail running, and the Prettyboy Reservoir for additional fishing. The flyfishing on the Gunpowder is among the best accessible flyfishing in the Mid-Atlantic.
Culture & History
Places with stories. Most military towns sit on deep history — dig in.
The Walters Art Museum
"One of the finest art museums in the US. Free admission."
A world-class museum with a collection spanning 55 centuries — ancient Egyptian, Roman, Medieval illuminated manuscripts, Japanese art, Impressionism, and Art Nouveau. Free admission always. One of the best art museums in the country, virtually free, in a city that doesn't get the credit it deserves.
Edgar Allan Poe House & Museum
◈ Rare"Poe's Baltimore home. He died here (under mysterious circumstances) in 1849."
A small row house in West Baltimore where Poe lived from 1833 to 1835 and wrote some of his earliest work. He returned to Baltimore in October 1849 under murky circumstances and died — cause of death still disputed. The museum is small but well-curated, and the neighborhood visit is part of the experience.
Family
Stuff to do with the kids. Rated by people who have brought actual children.
National Aquarium
"The premier aquarium on the East Coast. On the Inner Harbor."
The National Aquarium on the Inner Harbor is the best aquarium between New York and Washington — dolphin shows, a coral reef, an Amazon rainforest, and a native Maryland wetlands exhibit in a dramatic glass building on the waterfront. Military discount available.
Maryland Science Center
"A strong science museum with IMAX on the Inner Harbor."
Three floors of hands-on science exhibits with an IMAX theater and planetarium — covers Maryland's Chesapeake Bay ecosystem, dinosaurs, space, and physical science. Well-maintained and appropriate for children through middle school.
Day Trips
When you need to remember there's a world outside the gate.
"The Sailing Capital. The Naval Academy. The best crab houses on the Bay."
Thirty miles south, Annapolis is one of the great small cities in America — the Naval Academy, a perfectly preserved 18th-century colonial waterfront, Maryland crab houses on the Bay, and the best sailing access on the East Coast. A full-day trip easily.
"The capital. Free Smithsonians. An hour south on I-95."
Forty-five minutes south, Washington DC has the entire Smithsonian complex (all free), the National Mall monuments, excellent restaurants in Georgetown and Adams Morgan, and the military museums (Air and Space, Natural History, American History). The most accessible major-city day trip from Baltimore.
"Wild horses on the beach. The most unusual beach experience on the East Coast."
Two and a half hours southeast, Assateague Island National Seashore has wild ponies (feral since the 17th century) that wander the beach alongside visitors. Camping on the ocean beach with horses walking through the campsite is extraordinary.
Old Bay seasoning goes on everything in Baltimore. If you don't understand this within your first week, someone at the base will explain it.
The light rail runs from BWI Airport through downtown to Curtis Bay. You can commute without a car — unusual for a military installation.
The Baltimore Orioles at Camden Yards — one of the best ballparks ever built. Military discount tickets available. Going to a game in the summer is essential Baltimore living.
Charm City does have real crime concentrated in specific areas — West Baltimore and East Baltimore's distressed zones. Understand the geography. The Inner Harbor, Federal Hill, Fells Point, Canton, and Mt. Vernon are safe and excellent neighborhoods.
Baltimore has among the highest per-capita homicide rates in the US. This is concentrated geographically and does not describe the entire city, but it is real and requires geographic awareness when choosing housing and when moving around. The city government and school system have struggled. But the cultural assets, affordability, and food (the crabs alone justify the assignment) make Baltimore one of the more underrated military assignments on the East Coast.
This guide is built by people who've been stationed here. If there's a spot we got wrong or a gem we missed, tell us.