Naples, Italy

"The original pizza. Everything else is an imitation."

Neapolitan pizza was invented here and UNESCO has designated the art of Neapolitan pizza-making as an intangible cultural heritage. Gino Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali is the most famous — a 100-year-old family recipe, blistered leopard crust, San Marzano tomatoes, and fior di latte. No trip to Naples is complete without it.

"The clam-shell pastry of Naples. Eaten at 7am, standing at a bar."

Sfogliatelle are ricotta-filled pastries in shell-shaped multilayered dough — a uniquely Neapolitan creation. Pintauro on Via Toledo has been making them since 1785. Eat them hot, with an espresso standing at the bar. This is how Naples works.

"The original meat sauce. 8 hours of slow cooking."

Neapolitan ragù is the original — braised mixed meats (ribs, sausage, pork cheeks) slow-cooked for 8 hours in tomato sauce until the meat falls apart and the sauce is deep red and intensely flavored. The Sunday meal for every Neapolitan family. Find a traditional trattoria in the historic center.

"Greek aqueducts, Roman cisterns, and WWII shelters under the city."

Naples has been built on top of itself for 2,800 years — the underground tunnels, aqueducts, and chambers from Greek, Roman, and WWII eras are open for tours. The Greek-Roman theater where Nero performed is partially excavated under modern buildings.

"Three Greek temples more intact than anything in Greece. 1 hour south."

Paestum has three Greek temples from 600-450 BCE that are better preserved than anything in Athens — the Temple of Neptune is extraordinary. The on-site museum has the Tomb of the Diver (480 BCE) fresco.

"The real Naples. Vendors selling octopus and fried pizza."

Porta Nolana is the historic fish and food market below Spaccanapoli — the chaotic, loud, magnificent heart of working-class Naples. Buy fresh octopus and have it prepared, eat fried pizza from a street vendor, and accept that the city is trying to overwhelm you.

"The world's most beautiful coastal road. 1 hour from base."

The Amalfi Coast — Positano, Amalfi, Ravello — is one of the most photographed coastlines on Earth. The SS163 coastal road along the cliff edge above turquoise water is extraordinary. Hike the Path of the Gods ridge trail for the finest views.

"The Blue Grotto and the most glamorous island in the Mediterranean."

Capri is 45 minutes by hydrofoil from Naples — the Blue Grotto (a sea cave with iridescent blue water from light refraction), the Faraglioni rock stacks, and the Gardens of Augustus are the highlights. The island gets crowded midday — go early or late.

"The frozen city. 79 CE, still being excavated."

Pompeii is 30 minutes from base — the most complete ancient city in the world, frozen under Vesuvius's ash in 79 CE. The New Excavations of Regio V (ongoing) keep revealing new rooms, murals, and skeletons. The plaster casts of the victims are devastating.

"The world's greatest classical antiquities collection. In Naples."

The National Archaeological Museum Naples has the finest collection of ancient Greek and Roman artifacts in the world — Farnese Hercules, Farnese Bull, the secret cabinet of erotic Pompeii artifacts, and the original Alexander Mosaic. More important than the Louvre for classical material.

"Better preserved than Pompeii. Less crowded."

Herculaneum was buried under 20 meters of volcanic mud in 79 CE, which preserved wood, food, and organic materials that Pompeii's ash did not. The buildings stand two stories tall. Far less crowded than Pompeii and in some ways more intimate.